SS 2018 Catwalk Trends
NEW Retro styles are considered, shopping for vintage become a “necessity”: it’s personal
Found memories fuel a desire to bring the past into present, especially with respect to one’s formative years and personality. @BALENCIAGA “This is the first season I wanted to underline the Demna story,” the creative director said, “I could feel the restraint of paying homage and going back to the archives every season.”
Youthfulness – “world is becoming more playful, driven by generations not ready to grow up, including Boomers who desire a more active, enriched life.” [Trendhunter 2018 Report] @GUCCI “Go into the store and you don’t just recognise the season – you recognise the world. I want to stay here and grow beyond seasonal change.”
The power of the LOGO: “ I think it’s amazing how we can alter the meaning or value of an object / item of clothing by simply adding logos / brand iconography. Logos are the most powerful cultural signifier - they can reflect so much about a person’s taste, interests and values. Luxury brands are almost like institutions”
Ava Nirui artist and photographer
I admit I joined the game and allowed myself some fun when building this mood board… But there was no better way to express this particular aesthetic of the season SS 2018.
Since we are discussing retro: in the Balcanic countries, as mine, there are these ladies… “the grannies”, living in the country side, always on the move, always interested in their neighbors businesses, love life, money status, family affairs and, of course: clothing choices. So, since they seem to have so many opinions all the time, I decided to build an imaginary story in which they can actually analyze designer’s concepts for the next season and express their point of view:
I used some key words and expressions to underline the big ideas coming from this trend and a DROP of personal humour:
Vetements SS 2018 moodboard
Thrift shop, vintage, second hand nostalgia, these are some key words describing this emerging trend.
For the spring summer 2018, designers focused on creating retro stories:
A tribute to fashion’s most memorable moments, characters and styles. The raglan summer coat at Simone Rocha, with lace details, the styling at Balenciaga, the lines of tailored trousers and pants at Acne, the random mix-match at Gucci, the deconstructed sweaters at Christopher Kane, pops of mint and red and the oversized shoulders at Givenchy, all of these are reminescent of “children’s fashion of bygone days”:
Red is the colour of SS 2018 Runway.
The super versatile red dress: one of next season’s stars! The designers involved in this love story, Ralph Lauren, Oscar de la Renta, Christopher Kane, Stella McCartney, Calvin Klein, played with red fabrics in all textures to redesign this classic piece of clothing.
from my notes & colour research “Black has an ancient heart. Red has a confused and troubled mind. My love is like a red, red rose!”
notes from my 2017 Report on emerging trends
REALNESS // VISION and KEY CONCEPTS
Heterarchy – /ˈhɛtərɑːkɪ/ a formal structure, usually represented by a diagram of connected nodes, without any single permanent uppermost node.
People who create movement / New concepts arise in order to create a more authentic society / Cultivating the future minds.
Manifesting / The NEW “leaders”:
Mark Zuckerberg’s humanitarian manifesto 2017 / THE POWER OF THE GROUP
“A healthy society also has many layers of communities between us and government that take care of our needs. When we refer to our ‘social fabric’, we usually mean the many mediating groups that bring us together and reinforce our values.”
Lars AP and FUCKING FLINK 2017 / A HAPPIER, MORE FRIENDLY SOCIETY
In Copenhagen, Danmark, Lars AP owns a consultancy company designed to bring some changes on a social level: “Fucking Flink (“flink” is Danish for “friendly”) is a national movement. Our aim is to help the Danes – the world’s happiest people – also become the world’s friendliest.
Future values and aesthetics
Reality is nostalgic, honest and transparent, imperfect but lovely
Manifesting: A desire for “truth” arises.
“it’s better for the brands not to stand for anything than to pretend to stand for something”, sais Lauretta Reberts, director and editor-in-chief of The Industry London.
Like Arket (joins H&M’s existing brand portfolio)
The modern-day market = a transparent (check out garment description and supplier information available on https://www.arket.com/en_eur/index.html)
& lovely: ‘It both relates to our origin in the Nordic tradition of functional, long-lasting design and symbolises the blank sheet, the sense of optimism and possibility we felt creating this new brand’
co creation – ‘A fantastic team with diverse backgrounds and areas of expertise have come together to build ARKET. We’re very excited to soon reveal the brand and share our collections with customers’
says Ulrika Bernhardtz, Creative Director of the brand
Like Vetements / Off-White / Supreme /
The bold, imperfect, versatile
FASHION’s grown ups:
Like Dior / Comme des Garcons /
The wise, nostalgic, showing experience
Reality is a hybrid co creation, a multisensorial experience ( 5 senses stimulation)